When the average meat-eater thinks about plant-based options, green salads and blocks of flavorless tofu might pop into mind. But bland is never a word that could be used to describe the vegan Sichuan at Spicy Moon in the East Village, or its other two locations (one on the Bowery and a new outpost in the West Village).
Sichuan cuisine doesn’t traditionally steer clear of meat products, with some of the most popular dishes including dan dan noodles (typically containing minced pork) and laziji (a spicy chicken-based dish). Another, mapo tofu, typically contains ground pork despite its name insinuating it’s a plant-based dish. That’s not to say vegan Sichuan food cannot be done. Spicy Moon will convince even the proudest of carnivores that meat isn’t necessary to recreate those traditional flavors.
The restaurant cares deeply about sustainability, accessibility to vegan food, and animal rights. It was originally a vegetarian noodle shop that has since grown to become a fully vegan restaurant.
I ordered several dishes, starting with the crab-less rangoon. Out came a plate of deep-fried pockets and a side of bright pink pureed guava. The rangoons contained almond cream cheese and a hint of agave to mimic the typically sweet flavor. Who knew almonds could create such a creamy consistency?
The vegan duck wrap was up next. Instead of duck, Spicy Moon uses in-house braised tofu, crisping the outside to mimic the texture of the water fowl. It’s filled with pickled turnips, house-made spicy mayo (which is available for purchase both in-store and online), chili oil, pickled chili paste, and carrots and celery for crunch.
The crispy eggplant certainly lived up to its name, with thick cuts of creamy eggplant coated in panko bread crumbs and covered in scallions, I snacked on them as if they were fries, taking bites between other dishes. The hen of the woods mushroom bao bun was filled with crunchy maitake mushrooms, enveloped by a fluffy steamed bread. It was brightly balanced with tart pickled vegetables and a generous slathering of spicy mayo.
While one could easily fill up on appetizers, their signature dan dan noodles are a requirement. A bowl of wheat noodles is piled high with homemade chili oil, fermented vegetables, sesame oil, sesame paste, and scallions, and a server mixes the concoction tableside. Eat it while it’s hot, and hints of umami that replicate the saltiness of anchovies come through. It’s sweet, it’s salty, it’s pungent, it’s everything one could want in a dish, and it makes putting your chopsticks down a challenge.
On the side, I had the Sichuan peppercorn brussels sprouts. Each bite created a curious numbing sensation in my mouth, and it strengthened my desire to keep popping brussels like they were candy. Hey — that’s one way to eat your veggies.
Address: 328 E 6th St. (East Village); 256 Bowery (Nolita); 68 W 3rd St. (West Village)
Price Range: Appetizers and small bites $4.00 to $16.95; veggies $10.95 to $21.95; big bites $18.95 to $20.95, noodles and rice $11.95 to $19.95
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. every day (Bowery and East Village); Sun-Thu 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fri-Sat 11:3 a.m. to 11 p.m. (West Village)
Reservations: Available on Resy, delivery and take-out available
Kaitlyn Rosati is a New York City-based food and travel journalist. She is constantly on the hunt to find the city’s best hidden gems, allowing New Yorkers to travel far without ever leaving the boroughs. Have a suggestion for a great hidden dining gem in your neighborhood? Reach out to Kaitlyn with your recommendations at [email protected].